Decoding Levi's 501 Jeans with Button Mark #6
For vintage Levi's collectors, understanding the details of your jeans is key to determining their value. The number 6 stamped on the back of the top button is a special code, representing one of Levi's oldest factories in the United States. This button mark is a crucial detail for authenticating and dating Levi's 501 "Small e" jeans.
After Levi's registered the "Red Tab" in 1971, the capital letters "LEVI'S" (Big E) were replaced by the lowercase "Levi's" (small e). This change ushered in a new era of production, which can be divided into two distinct periods based on the jeans' construction.
This era marks the transition from "Big E" to "small e" but retains some classic features.
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Button Mark: Top button stamped with #6.
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Denim: Features Selvedge denim.
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Back Pocket: The back pocket uses single-needle stitching. The corner is reinforced with a black bar tack instead of a rivet.
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Red Tab: The iconic red tab features the brand name in lowercase, "Levi's" (e).
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Care Tag: The care label from this period typically mentions a shrinkage of approximately 8%.
This is a highly sought-after era for collectors as it represents the unique blend of a new logo with a classic construction.
Period 2: 1978–1985
This period represents the final phase of selvedge denim production before a major change in manufacturing.
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Button Mark: Top button stamped with #6.
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Denim: Still features Selvedge denim.
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Back Pocket: The back pocket stitching is changed to a chain stitch, replacing the earlier single stitch.
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Care Tag: Care labels from this period typically mention a slightly higher shrinkage of approximately 10%.
By examining the stitching on the back pocket, you can easily distinguish a pair from 1971-1977 (single stitch) from one made between 1978-1985 (chain stitch).
Note: The #6 button mark can also be found on non-selvedge jeans, especially during the transition period. It's essential to consider all the details—like the presence of the red line selvedge—to accurately date your pair.
Good luck with your collecting!
