Levi's color code list.

Decoding Your Levi's: What Do Those Four Numbers Really Mean?

If you've ever owned a pair of Levi's jeans, you've probably noticed the four-digit numbers that follow the model number—for example, "Levi's 501-0000." While dedicated denim enthusiasts might be familiar with these codes, many casual wearers have no idea what they signify. What exactly do these numbers indicate, and are they important? Today, we're going to demystify these codes and dive into what makes your favorite pair of jeans so unique.

Understanding Levi's Denim Fabric Codes

You'll often find these four-digit numbers on a small paper tag or the care label inside your jeans. They specifically identify the type of denim fabric used. Let's explore some of the most common and notable fabric codes:

0000: Shrink-to-Fit (STF)

Jeans with the 0000 code are made from "Shrink-to-Fit" (STF) denim. This is an unsanforized fabric, meaning it hasn't been pre-shrunk. Because of this, you should expect about 10% shrinkage after the first wash. If you buy your usual size, the jeans might end up being too small after they've been washed.

The main appeal of STF denim is its raw, authentic character. Many denim fans prefer this type of fabric because the deep indigo dye fades gradually over time, creating unique creases and patterns. This process, which results in sought-after 'honeycomb' fades and other worn-in looks, is highly prized by denim enthusiasts who love to break in their own jeans.

0113: Light Bleached Denim

The 0113 code signifies a light bleached denim. In previous eras, the trend of faded, bright jeans was immensely popular. To meet this demand, Levi's introduced this pre-bleached option, offering a lighter, worn-in look right off the shelf.

 0115: Pre-Shrunk & Sanforized Dark Denim (Often for Zipper Fly)

Denim coded 0115 has undergone a pre-shrinking process (sanforization). This means the fabric will not significantly shrink after washing, making it ideal for jeans with a zipper fly where maintaining a consistent fit is crucial. You can confidently purchase these jeans in your true waist size, knowing they won't become too tight after washing.

0117: Stretch Denim (Special Sizes)

While also a "Shrink-to-Fit" (STF) variant, the 0117 code is distinct. This denim is used for jeans with special or oversized dimensions, such as unusually long inseams or larger waist sizes. For example, a "Levi's 1501-0117" might feature an inseam of 38 inches, whereas a typical long inseam is often 34 inches.

0216: Dark Denim (Zipper Fly)

Jeans with the 0216 code are made from a dark denim that has been pre-washed to control shrinkage. This fabric is specifically designed for zipper fly models like the Levi's 505-0216, ensuring the color intensity remains consistent and the fit stable after washing.

0217: Extra Dark Denim (No Shrinkage)

The 0217 code indicates an exceptionally dark denim, even darker than the 0216. Like the 0216, this denim is pre-washed and will not shrink, allowing you to select your exact label size. You'll often find this code on models like the Levi's 505-0217 or on Levi's denim jackets.

0651: White Denim

As the name suggests, 0651 is the code for white denim. White jeans, particularly in certain fashion eras, were quite popular for their clean and distinct aesthetic.

0657: Gray Denim

The 0657 code represents gray denim. It's worth noting that if you encounter a pair of Levi's 501s with a 0657 code but the denim is blue, it's a strong indicator of a counterfeit product. This mismatch between the fabric code and the actual denim color is a tell-tale sign of a fake.

0658: Black Denim (Standard)

While some might assume 0658 indicates "Super Black" denim, it simply refers to standard black denim. If you're looking for the deepest black, you'll need to check for a different code.

0660: Magic Black / Super Black Denim

The 0660 code is legendary among Levi's enthusiasts, denoting "Super Black" or "Magic Black" denim. This denim is known for its incredibly rich and deep black color.

However, there's an important caveat: unworn Super Black jeans that haven't been washed can be prone to fabric degradation over many years if stored improperly. The dyes and chemicals in the unwashed fabric can, in rare cases, cause the material to decompose. If you acquire vintage unwashed Super Black jeans, it's advisable to wash them to stabilize the fabric and prevent this issue. Washed Super Black denim does not typically experience this problem.

0913: Refined/Textured Denim

Denim with the 0913 code is a "refined" or textured denim, often featuring a distinctive pattern or weave. This type of denim was quite popular among jeans wearers in the past, offering a unique visual appeal.

5900: Shrink-to-Fit (STF) for Japan Market

The 5900 code signifies Shrink-to-Fit (STF) denim, also designed for approximately 10% shrinkage. Interestingly, much of the denim with this code, although produced in the United States, was primarily exported to Japan, reflecting the strong denim culture in that market.

0194: Stone Washed Denim

Levi's jeans with the 0194 code are made from blue denim that has undergone a "stone washing" process. This technique involves washing the jeans with pumice stones to create a faded, uneven, and pre-worn appearance.

0334: Bright, Faded Bleached Denim (1980s-1990s Trend)

The 0334 code identifies blue denim that has been heavily bleached to achieve a very bright and faded look. This particular aesthetic was extremely popular among teenagers in the 1980s and 1990s. During that era, the more faded a pair of jeans looked, the cooler they were considered. Levi's introduced the 0334 code to directly cater to this prevailing fashion trend.

These four-digit codes are a testament to Levi's history of innovation and their dedication to producing a wide variety of denim fabrics to meet different consumer preferences and fashion trends. The next time you pick up a pair of Levi's, take a moment to check the code and understand the unique story behind the denim.